Wednesday StyleCrave: Barker Black Ltd.

Shoes are the single most important part of a man’s wardrobe. A nice bespoke Italian suit, an impeccable silk tie, a one-of-a-kind timepiece– all worthless without stylish, well-constructed footwear. Still, too many guys either wrongly interpret “classic” to mean staid and boring; then they’re so anxious to establish a unique and nontraditional look that they go crazy with over-embellished, cartoonish, faux-Euro “edginess.” Or, they stay the traditional course without putting forth the effort to develop personal style. The middle ground between the two approaches is where British shoe company Barker Black Limited resides, and it’s where you should consider hanging out too.  Continue reading for more about Barker Black Ltd.

Barker Black’s collection is all about pairing traditional, hand-crafted construction with a not not-so-traditional take on classic the classic dress shoe profile. The 126-year-old company is one of England’s oldest shoemaker’s but had become somewhat stodgy and overlooked by the time new investors bought it out a few years ago. In 2004, they hired Derrick Miller, who left his job at Ralph Lauren Purple Label, to revamp the line and bring it out of the 1800s. Miller did just that, but he did so with the company’s history in mind. When researching for inspiration, he came across a logo belonging to an ancient regiment of British horseback guards known as the 17th Lancers. The logo consisted of a skull and crossbones topped off by a crown and quickly became the brands signature symbol. Known for their auspicious mode of dress, the 17th Lancers were known as “Bingham’s Dandies.” The nickname is a testament to the aristocrat-meets-rock-star-pirate feel of the collection. In fact, the first word that comes to mind when looking at Barker Black’s killer Lavenum Boot, with it’s narrow, rounded toe and spat-like buckles, is definitely “Dandy.” And wouldn’t you know it, the Lancers’ nickname was “Bingham’s Dandies.”

Being a dandy is all about attitude. The best line in the online description of the collection, describes the shoes as “young, sleek, sophisticated design with a touch of arrogance.” The new Barker Black takes he eccentric bravado of 17th-Century British dandyism and pares it down to a few subtle details. The two most talked-about examples are found on the Crown Loafer and the Archdale wingtip. The loafer is a take on the traditional penny loafer, with a cut-out in the shape of a crown where the proverbial or literal coin would traditionally go. The wingtip sports the entire skull-and-crossbones logo on its toe, punched out in brogue detail; a flourish that could easily project a lame attempt at hipness. But, the detail is so subtle that, from any reasonable distance, the shape is nearly impossible to make out.

Barker Black refers to its style as “sophisticated subversion.” Now, “subversion” seems a bit strong; I might just use the word “cool.” But, it’s the brand’s subtle approach to non-traditional alteration that’s got people noticing Barker Black. Their shoes have gotten write-ups in nearly every fashion magazine of note, including GQ and British Esquire, since it’s rebirth in 2004. Don’t let the buzz discourage you though. These are no flash-in-the-pan kicks. Despite its winks and nods, the collection is still timeless footwear. And, the brand has already expanded to ties, pocket squares, and is planning on launch a full clothing line in the near future. It’s a good time to be a Dandy.

*Available at: Jeffrey (New York), Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus